MSR^® Tent FAQ

Waterproof means that the fabric has been coated with polyurethane and the seams have been taped, making that area of the tent impermeable to water. "mm" refers to the amount of water the fabric will hold before it leaks. A 1500mm coating, for example, will withstand a 1500mm (5') column of water for more than one minute before a single drop might appear through the fabric. That's strong enough to prevent rain from leaking in a 75 mph hurricane-force storm.

"D" stands for Denier. It's a numbering system for fibers, filaments and yarns, in which the lower numbers are lighter/finer and the higher numbers heavier/coarser. "T" stands for Thread Count – specifically the number of warp and fill threads in a square inch. The lower numbers represent a loosely woven fabric and the higher number a tightly woven fabric. These two numbers together help indicate the strength and feel of a piece of fabric.

The 7-point design has a "flat" and a "pointed" end. For all configurations, the "pointed end" should always be used as the highest supported point. The opposite "flat edge," which consists of three points, can be stretched tightly and attached to a shelter, car rack, or even the pole-supported vestibule of a tent to form a protected area. Try placing the poles at different points, using no poles at all or adding more poles to create new living spaces. (Paddles and sticks work well in the cord storage pockets, too.) Experiment and be creative!

It’s recommended that you use a footprint (sold separately) underneath your tent. Designed for each specific model, a footprint will not only keep your tent floor clean and dry, it will protect it from excessive abrasion, prolonging the life of the tent.

Never pack or store your tent if it is wet/damp or dirty. Though we use the best polyurethane waterproofing available, prolonged exposure to moisture causes hydrolysis; the waterproof layer breaks down, becoming soft, sticky and no longer waterproof. Storing a wet tent for as little as 24 hours in warm weather is also likely to start the process of mildew forming on the fabric. Mildew will cause your tent to stain, smell, and will lead to the premature breakdown of the waterproof coating, as well. Mildew and moisture damage are not covered under the Limited Warranty.

Dry your tent thoroughly after every trip and store it outside of the stuff sack, the same as you would a sleeping bag, in a dry area out of direct sunlight.

A tent's lifespan is directly connected to the amount you use it. A tent's biggest enemy is UV radiation (just like your skin). A tent that lives in extreme conditions at high altitude, such as Everest Base Camp, may only last a few months, while a well taken care of tent, used occasionally under normal conditions, can last for many years.

Minimum and packaged weights are defined by American Standards and Testing Methods (ASTM), one of the largest voluntary standards development organizations in the world. Minimum weight is the combined weight of the tent body, rainfly and poles. Packaged weight includes the tent body, rainfly, poles, stakes, stuff sack, instruction manuals, pole repair sleeves, guy lines, and everything else that comes with your tent.

Guying out your tent will provide more stability in windy or extreme conditions. To guy out your tent, run cord from the tent's guy point through the tensioner. Pass the cord around the stake and back through the tensioner, keeping the curved side of the tensioner toward the stake. Tie a knot at the end of the cord. To tighten cord, pull the tensioner up along the cord and release. A climbing rope can be used by threading the rope through the fabric loop of the guy point and anchored down to the ground via the rope that is between each of the guy points.

One of the easiest ways to damage your tent is not drying it as quickly as possible whenever it gets wet. Storing a wet tent as short as 24 hours in warm weather is likely to start the process of mildew forming on the fabric. Mildew can permanently damage the waterproof coatings by causing them to separate from the fabric, but mild to severe staining is more common. Mildew stains are permanent. They cannot be removed without potential harm to the fabric coatings and are not covered by warranty. Even when your tent appears to be dry after use, it is always best to unfold and assure it is completely dry before storing. This can be achieved by hanging it outside or even leaving loosely clumped in your house for a few days, turning it inside and out to assure it has dried everywhere. Never machine dry your tent as the heat can melt the fabric.

Cleaning your tent is not necessary unless it has an offensive odor or becomes heavily soiled. If heavily soiled, the pressure from a regular garden hose will remove most loose dirt. For more severe cleaning, set up your tent and hand wash it with warm water, a sponge and mild, non-detergent soap. Do not use dishwashing liquid, detergent, bleach, pre-soaking solutions, or spot removers. Rinse well. Dry your tent by pitching or line dry. Never dry clean, machine wash or machine dry your tent. Any of these methods can remove all the waterproof coatings from the fabric.

Superior fabrics and construction make MSR tents extremely waterproof. The rainfly and floor are factory seam taped, so seam sealing is not recommended. If any problems develop, seam seal the specific area only. Seam seal the inner, coated shiny side of the area only. Follow the instructions on the seam sealer tube. Use a syringe for accuracy. Allow the seam sealer to dry, then apply baby or talc powder to prevent the seam sealer from sticking to the rest of the tent.

Condensation is the build-up of moisture inside your tent due to differences between the inside and outside temperatures. In your tent, it is caused by 3 main sources:

• Weather Conditions: High humidity, low temperatures, and rainy conditions create the most condensation.
• People: We produce about 1 - 2 pints of moisture in a night through breathing and skin evaporation.
• Wet Environment: Wet ground or wet gear stored inside the tent.

The key to reducing condensation is ventilation. Fresh air has to flow into your tent and warm, moist air has to escape. We have has designed a variety of ways to do this. The first is in the construction. The tent body and ceiling are made of breathable fabric and MicroMesh. This allows moisture to escape through the breathable fabric, so condensation will be on the waterproof rainfly, not inside the tent. In addition, every MSR rainfly also has a peak vent that provides protection from the outside, but still allows for essential free flowing, fresh air into your tent. Guying out your tent will also increase ventilation in hot or humid conditions. Unfortunately, no tent design will totally eliminate condensation in all conditions. But, providing good ventilation using any of the above tips will help in reducing it.

Unfortunately, sometimes damage does occur to your tent. You can do minor repairs in the field using one of several alternatives. We offers waterproof, self-adhesive patches (sold separately) for all of the fabrics and MicroMesh on your tent. Seam sealers are also a good alternative for small holes or duct tape for minor, temporary field repairs. If you use duct tape be sure to remove it as soon as you are through with your trip, the adhesive will eventually eat away at the fabric and you will end up needing a larger patch. We recommend carrying at least one of these as a precaution. If you have a large tear, the our Product Service Center can also fix your tent after you return from your trip.

If a tent pole breaks, you can make a temporary splint with the pole repair sleeve. Slide the repair sleeve over the broken section and tape or wedge it in place to hold it secure.