Frequently Asked Questions
Tents
Why do actual weights sometimes differ from published weights?
Although we try to be as accurate as possible with our published weights, MSR, like all manufacturers, must make educated guesses as to what the final weights of our tents will be. Because of this, you may notice your tent weighing a few ounces above or below its advertised specs. Such discrepancies are common among tents due to the nature of the product. During the manufacturing process, variations in coatings and fabrics can lead to modest weight differences. In lightweight tents, this equates to a mere ounce or two. In larger tents, it can be a bit more.
Here are a few reasons for those weight variances:
- Coating variances: The thickness in coatings on tent fabric can vary a bit from one tent to another. Fabrics are produced in batches and called “lots,” and there can be a slight weight difference between lots as well as within lots.
- Fabric variances: Because tent fabric is hand cut in up to 200 layers at once, some pieces may be cut just outside the line, making certain parts slightly larger and thus heavier.
- Scale accuracy: At MSR, weights are determined using our calibrated lab scales, which are more accurate than normal household scales.
- Added products: Brands may decide at the last minute to include more stakes or guy cords, which will add to the packaged weight.
To learn more about how we define tent weights, please visit our blog post on this topic!
What are packaged and minimum weights?
At MSR, we voluntarily follow ASTM International F 1934-98 standards around these two tent industry terms. In accordance with this standard, packaged weight includes the total weight of the packaged contents off the shelf. Minimum weight, by comparison, refers to the combined weight of the tent body, rainfly (if applicable) and tent poles, but not any of the other items that may appear in the package, such as tent stakes, guy cords, stuff sack, etc.
Many MSR backpacking tents can be pitched using only the rainfly, poles and footprint, and in our tent specs we call this non-industry standard setup option our Fast & Light weight.
To learn more about packaged weight vs. minimum, and the manufacturing processes that can affect them, check out our blog post on the topic.
What defines "waterproof" in a tent and what does the "mm" rating mean?
For an MSR tent, waterproof means that all external fabric has been coated with our exceptional polyurethane coatings and the seams are watertight out of the bag. "mm" refers to millimeters and is paired with a number to represent a standardized measurement of how waterproof a coating is. For instance, a 1500mm coating will withstand a 1500mm (5') column of water for more than one minute before a single drop might appear through the fabric. That's strong enough to prevent rain from leaking into a tent in a hurricane-force storm.
Why should I get a footprint?
We recommend that you use an MSR footprint (sold separately) underneath your tent. Customized to fit each specific model, it will not only keep your tent floor clean and dry, but it will also protect it from excessive abrasion, prolonging the life of the tent. In addition, some of our tents can be set up with just the footprint and fly, creating an incredibly light, minimalist alternative to a full tent.
How do I prevent mildew?
One of the easiest ways to damage your tent is by not drying it as quickly as possible after it gets wet. Storing a wet tent for as little as 24 hours in warm weather is likely to start the process of mildew formation. Mildew can permanently damage the waterproof coatings by causing them to separate from the fabric, but mild to severe staining is more common. Mildew stains are permanent. They cannot be removed without potential harm to the fabric coatings and are not covered by warranty. Even when your tent appears to be dry after use, it is always best to assure it is completely dry before storing. Hang it outside or pile it loosely in your house for a few days, turning it inside and out to assure it has dried everywhere. Never machine dry your tent as the heat can melt the fabric.
How do I seam seal my tent?
If you start to notice leaks along your seams, seam sealing can make them waterproof again, extending the life of your tent. The process can be easier than you might think. We put together this video to help guide you through.
What's the best way to clean my tent?
Cleaning your tent is not necessary unless it has an offensive odor or becomes heavily soiled. If heavily soiled, the pressure from a regular garden hose will remove most loose dirt. For more severe cleaning, set up your tent and hand wash it with warm water, a sponge and mild, non-detergent soap. Do not use dishwashing liquid, detergent, bleach, pre-soaking solutions, or spot removers. Rinse well. Dry your tent by pitching it or line-drying it. Never dry clean, machine- wash or machine-dry your tent. Any of these methods can remove all the waterproof coatings from the tent.
Are the shorter Hubba Hubba Bikepacking tent poles compatible with other Hubba Hubba series tents?
The shorter tent poles for our new Hubba Hubba 1 and Hubba Hubba 2 bikepacking tents will not work for previous generation Hubba Hubba tent series (non-bikepacking models). This is due to the specific geometry and design configuration. These pole sets are made out of different materials and the arc and curvature of the tent is actually different because of it. The tent body is then designed differently to fit snugly within that curvature, and thus, the two different tent poles are not interchangeable in between these models. Another question we get asked is whether or not the front mount bikepacking bag/stuff sack can be purchased separately to be used with a different (non-packing) Hubba Hubba series tent. The short answer is no, because the bikepacking tent poles are shorter - one of the main draws of this design for packability purposes, and it's ability to fit well between handlebars. The longer pole sets on other models will not fit into the Hubba Hubba bikepacking tent front mount stuff sack. Do you need tent poles for your non MSR tent, such as Walrus or Moss? For any tent poles that we do not make/no longer make (Moss, Walrus, etc.), please check with Tent Pole Technologies for information.
What happens if one of my poles breaks?
If a tent pole breaks, you can make a temporary splint with the pole repair sleeve. Slide the repair sleeve over the broken section and tape or wedge in place with a stick to hold it secure.
Understanding Prop 65
What is California Proposition 65?
Passed into law by California’s voters in 1986, Prop 65 is intended to help California residents make informed decisions about the products they buy.
The law states that companies selling products in California must display a warning when the product contains one or more of the approximately 800 chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.
Why has MSR placed a Proposition 65 label on some of its products?
By placing the Prop 65 warning on a product, MSR acknowledges that it contains one or more of the chemicals on the Prop 65 list, however the listed chemical may be well within the “no significant risk” range. MSR has not evaluated every product but out of caution, we include the warning.
Are consumers who use an MSR product with a Proposition 65 label at risk?
The label simply indicates that the product contains the chemical and because of that, there is a potential for exposure to it.
The California government states: “The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the product is unsafe.” The government explains, “You could think of Proposition 65 more as a ‘right to know’ law than a pure product safety law.”
For example, some MSR stoves contain brass. Exposure to brass is not itself harmful. However lead is a component of brass and should the brass be disrupted, a user could potentially come in contact with the lead. While the lead levels fall below the “no significant risk” range, MSR is still required to acknowledge its presence.
To learn more about California’s Prop 65, please visit: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/general-info/proposition-65-plain-language
What types of chemicals are on the Proposition 65 list?
The Prop 65 list contains a wide range of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals that are known to California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. They may be additives or ingredients in pesticides, common household products, food, drugs, dyes or solvents. They may be used in manufacturing and construction, or be the byproducts of chemical processes. Proposition 65 requires that the Governor of California maintain and publish a list of these harmful chemicals, and update it annually.
According to the state of California:
A chemical is listed if it has been classified as a reproductive toxicant or carcinogen by an "authoritative" organization on the subject. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, the National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer are considered authoritative for carcinogens. For reproductive toxicants, appropriate authorities include the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, and International Agency for Research on Cancer. Chemicals will also be listed if they are required to be labeled or identified as a carcinogen or as a reproductive toxicant by an agency of the state or federal government.
What do the letters D and T after the fabrics mean?
"D" stands for Denier. It's a numbering system for fibers, filaments and yarns, in which the lower numbers are lighter/finer and the higher numbers heavier/coarser. "T" stands for Thread Count – specifically the number of warp and fill threads in a square inch. The lower numbers represent a loosely woven fabric and the higher number a tightly woven fabric. These two numbers together help indicate the strength and feel of a piece of fabric.
What are some different configuration of the tarps and wings?
The 7-point design has a "flat" and a "pointed" end. For all configurations, the "pointed end" should always be used as the highest supported point. The opposite "flat edge," which consists of three points, can be stretched tightly and attached to a shelter, car rack, or even the pole-supported vestibule of a tent to form a protected area. Try placing the poles at different points, using no poles at all or adding more poles to create new living spaces. (Paddles and sticks work well in the cord storage pockets, too.) Experiment and be creative!
How should I store my tent?
Never pack or store your tent if it is wet, damp or dirty. Although we use the best polyurethane waterproofing available, prolonged exposure to moisture causes hydrolysis which, in turn, causes the waterproof layer to break down, becoming soft, sticky and no longer waterproof. Storing a wet tent for as little as 24 hours in warm weather is also likely to start the process of mildew forming on the fabric. Mildew will cause your tent to stain, smell and will also lead to the premature breakdown of the waterproof coating. Mildew and moisture damage are not covered under the Limited Warranty.
For long-term storage, keep your tent in a dry and cool area, out of direct sunlight. Store it outside of its stuff sack, as you would a sleeping bag, in a breathable, over-sized cotton or mesh duffel for protection. On the cheap, an old pillowcase is ideal.
How do I guy out my tent with the included tensioners?
Guying out your tent will provide more stability in windy or extreme conditions while also maximizing ventilation. To guy out your tent, run cord from the tent's guy point through the tensioner. Pass the cord around the stake and back through the tensioner, keeping the curved side of the tensioner toward the stake. Tie a knot at the end of the cord. To tighten cord, pull the tensioner up along the cord and release.
What causes condensation and how do I reduce it in my tent?
Condensation is the build-up of moisture inside your tent due to differences between the inside and outside temperatures. There are three main sources:
- Weather Conditions: High humidity, low temperatures, and rainy conditions create the most condensation.
- People: We produce about 1 - 2 pints of moisture per night through breathing and skin evaporation.
- Wet Environment: Wet ground or wet gear stored inside the tent.
While no tent design can eliminate condensation, the key to reducing it is ventilation. Cooler, drier air has to flow into your tent and warm, moist air must escape. We have designed a variety of ways to do this.
To start, the tent body and ceiling are made of breathable and mesh fabrics. This allows moisture to escape the interior of your tent. However, it must also be able to escape the waterproof fly, and every MSR rainfly has a peak vent that provides protection from the outside, while still allowing essential, free-flowing fresh air to move through your tent. You can also leave a door open in good weather, or take advantage of the double sliders on the doors to vent from the top where warm and moist air tends to accumulate. Make sure to leave at least two vents open if possible, allowing any breeze to provide cross-flow ventilation for maximum circulation. Guying out your rainfly will also increase ventilation in hot or humid conditions.
Video: What causes condensation in a tent
How long will a tent last?
A tent's lifespan is directly connected to the amount you use it. A tent's biggest enemy is UV radiation (just like your skin). A tent that lives in extreme conditions at high altitude, such as Everest Base Camp, may only last a few months, while a well taken care of tent, used occasionally under normal conditions, can last for many years.
Does MSR sell tent pole sets by themselves?
Yes, we do sell tent pole sets by themselves – just contact us here if you need a replacement. Please note, our pole sets are only compatible with the specific tent model they are designed to fit.
Stoves
Which WindBurner® Pots can I use with which stoves?
WindBurner pots must be used only with WindBurner stoves. This is because the pot and stove are specifically engineered to create an integrated system.
There are currently two WindBurner stove designs. The original threads directly onto the top of the canister. It is available only in the smallest WindBurner system, the Personal 1.0 L System.
In 2017, we introduced the remote-canister design, in which the stove is remotely connected to the canister by a fuel line. This new design supports larger pots and is available in the WindBurner Duo System,Group System and Combo System.
Compatibility
Every WindBurner pot is compatible with the new remote-canister stove. It provides the necessary stability needed for the larger pots. Therefore, the remote-canister stove is compatible with:
If you own the 1.0 L Personal system or a first-gen 1.8 L system and your stove mounts on top of the canister, you may use these pots:
Do not use the larger 2.5 L Group Sauce Pot or 4.5 L Stock Pot on this top-mounted stove; the larger pots are less stable on this stove.
Do I need to upgrade my WindBurner® to the new remote-canister stove design?
It depends on your cooking preferences.
The new remote-canister stove burner is a more versatile stove design because it provides the ability to cook with the new larger WindBurner pots. If you plan to cook for groups or make more elaborate meals in the backcountry, the new remote-canister stove is an excellent choice. It comes in the new WindBurner Duo System, the Group System and the Combo System.
If you simply want to boil water fast, and your party size is typically only 1-3 people, the 1.0 L Personal System or the first-generation 1.8 L System (which feature the stove that mounts directly on the canister) remain great options.
Are camping fuel canisters refillable?
No, backpacking fuel canisters, such as MSR’s IsoPro canisters, are not refillable. When buying fuel in a foreign country, ensure that the canisters you’re purchasing have not been used and refilled, as this practice can create a dangerous situation. MSR’s Warranty & Repair Shop in Seattle offers free canister recycling for those who are able to drop their canisters off at the shop.
Can I use any pot on a WindBurner® stove?
Because of the WindBurner stove’s unique radiant burner design, only WindBurner pots may be used on WindBurner stoves. It’s important to remember that each WindBurner stove system is just that—a system, which requires its burner and its specially engineered pot. All WindBurner pots feature a heat exchanger on the bottom. The WindBurner’s radiant burner is designed specifically to work with this heat exchanger. Together, the heat exchanger and radiant burner create a windproof, highly efficient system for backcountry cooking. It’s for this reason that generic pots are not compatible with the WindBurner stove.
Can I run the canister inverted with my WindBurner® Stove?
No, the WindBurner is not designed to be used this way. To achieve similar performance to an inverted canister in cold weather and with low fuel, the WindBurner uses a built-in pressure regulator. This regulator design allows the stove to deliver a faster and more consistent cooking experience than using the canister inverted, down to 32◦ F/0◦ C canister temp.
Do not invert the canister on your WindBurner stove. Doing so can lead to extremely dangerous flare-ups or liquid fuel build up. The fuel line connection was intentionally designed without a swivel connection to prevent such use. If you wish to use the WindBurner in temperatures below freezing, place the canister in a bowl of water. As long as the canister stays above freezing, it will operate at full output, providing fast boil times and excellent fuel efficiency.
Are there videos showing stove use and maintenance?
Yes. We currently have these videos available demonstrating use and maintenance for our liquid-fuel stoves.
Can I send in my stove to be serviced?
Yes, our Product Service Department an perform services for a modest price.
How do I fly/travel with my stove?
Each airline has different rules regarding the transportation of camping stoves. Please ask your airline about their regulations.
Please note: Carrying flammable fuel on passenger aircraft in carry-on or checked luggage is forbidden. Before transporting fuel bottles on passenger aircraft, safely empty all fuel, wash inside with soapy water, rinse thoroughly, air dry, and stow bottle uncapped.
Check for the latest regulations on the TSA website.
Where do I get fuels in foreign countries and what other types of fuel can I use?
Camping fuel (white gas) is sold in a variety of places worldwide. If you can't find fuel in an outdoor store, try a gas station or hardware store. For translations and general availability of fuels around the world see the chart at the bottom of this blog post.
Liquid Fuel Stoves — If you have a multi-fuel stove, like the XGK™, DragonFly™ or WhisperLite™ Internationale stoves, try kerosene. Just remember to use the "k" jet included with your stove (Marked K, GK, or DK depending on the stove).
Canister Fuel Stoves — PocketRocket™, WindPro™, and Reactor® stoves will only accept threaded, self-sealing canisters. If you have a SuperFly™ stove, it will work on both threaded and non-threaded self-sealing canisters, like Campingaz branded canisters.
What pumps are compatible with what stoves?
MSR standard stove pumps (Grey and Red or Grey and Black) are compatible with all MSR liquid fuel stoves, except the DragonFly&trade stove. DragonFly-specific pumps (Red and Red or Teal and Red) will only work with DragonFly stoves.
How do I clean the DragonFly™ stove valve?
Only clean the inside of the Cool Fuel valve if you have less than 1.5 total revolutions of the Flame Adjuster when fully assembled.
- Remove Flame Adjuster, Jet and Shaker Jet needle. For best results allow fuel line to completely dry out on the inside.
- Assemble the wire handle from the Flame Adjuster onto the DragonFly cleaning tool.
- Insert DragonFly cleaning tool into flame adjuster tube and rotate clockwise while applying firm, but not excessive, force. After 20 turns remove the DragonFly cleaning tool. Shake out debris by tapping fuel line on clean hard surface and allowing deposits to fall out of fuel line through Flame Adjuster port. Reassemble Flame Adjuster and count the number of full revolutions, If less than 1.5 repeat cleaning. After cleaning is done install Flame Adjuster and flush out the fuel line.
How do I flush the DragonFly™ fuel line?
Flushing is required any time valve cleaning has been performed.
- Connect stove to Fuel Bottle with DragonFly Pump as if assembling for operation. (Do not include windscreen or Heat Reflector).
- Remove Flame Spreader, Jet and Shaker Jet Needle.
- Turn On/ Off Valve and Flame Adjuster ON and allow fuel to run through fuel line for 30 seconds. CAUTION: Always flush away from any ignition source. Spilled fuel is a fire hazard! Light stove away from cleaning area and only after residual fuel on stove has evaporated.
- Reinstall Shaker Jet Needle, Jet and Flame Spreader.
- Light stove. While stove is lit, adjust output several times through full range of flame. This may loosen remaining deposits.
- If clogging persists, repeat flushing process. Two or three flushing cycles are often required to completely clean out deposits.
How do I replace the fuel line filter in the DragonFly™ stove?
The fuel line filter is in the stove's fuel tube adapter; this is the brass tube that goes into the fuel pump. To remove the filter, take a safety pin and push the sharp point through the middle of the filter. Carefully pry the filter out and discard it. To install a new filter, place the filter on a hard surface such as a table top, push the fuel tube adapter straight down onto the filter so that the filter is inserted flush with the end of the fuel tube adapter. It is normal for a small amount of plastic from the filter to be shaved off as the filter is installed; simply rub or cut off the excess material.
Why won't my stove prime / light?
There are several reasons your stove may not be priming or lighting. The most common one is that the jet is clogged. First try cleaning your jet. Shaker jet stove owners simply shake your stove vigorously up and down. Non shaker jet stove owners use the jet cleaning wire that was provided with your stove to poke out any debris that may be blocking the passage of fuel. If unscuccessful, remove jet and clean, then hold the jet up and look through hole to make sure it is clear, crisp, and round. If that doesn't resolve the problem, you will need to clean the fuel line.
My liquid-fuel stove lights, but has a very weak flame.
There are several reasons your stove may have a weak flame. The most common one is that the jet and fuel line are clogged from use or from old degraded fuel.
First, try cleaning your jet. Shaker Jet stove owners simply shake your stove vigorously up and down. Non-Shaker Jet owners use the jet cleaning wire that was provided with your stove to poke out any debris that may be blocking the passage of fuel. If that does not resolve the problem, you will need to clean the fuel line.
It may also be that the fuel you are using is old. Over time, white gas degrades. The type and quality of fuel, and its exposure to air and heat will affect how fast this degradation happens. Old fuel will clog fuel lines and should be avoided.
See Cleaning the Fuel line for the WhisperLite, WhisperLite Internationale, SimmerLite & XGK EX stoves.
Can I upgrade my old MSR stove to the new Shaker Jet model?
Possibly. Please contact the customer service center for a recommendation.
Can I upgrade my WhisperLite stove to a WhisperLite Internationale stove?
No, the larger diameter generator tube on a WhisperLite Internationale stove will not fit through the slot on the WhisperLite flame reflector.
I can't find white gas anywhere; is Coleman fuel the same thing?
Yes, Coleman fuel is a white gas. We also make a high quality white gas that will reduce clogging (MSR SuperFuel™). Crown and Camplite also make white gas. MSR SuperFuel white gas, Crown Camping Fuel, and Camplite Camping Fuel are available at your local outdoor stores.
Can you simmer with an MSR liquid-fuel stove?
Our award-winning DragonFly™ stove has a fully adjustable flame, which makes simmering a breeze. However, with other MSR liquid fuel stoves, the most efficient way is to run the stove with extremely low pressure in the fuel bottle. A couple of pump strokes in a half-full bottle are optimal.
Can I leave my fuel pump in the bottle?
Yes, there is no problem with leaving the pump in the bottle. However, we recommend that the pressure is released when not in use. Do this by slowly unscrewing the pump, away from open flames, while holding the bottle upright.
Why does my cable become stuck and how can I remove it?
In general, cables become stuck due to a lack of Fuel Line cleaning and maintenance. Diminished stove performance also results from lack of maintenance. Therefore, it is important to perform routine maintenance on your stove.
Stuck cables can be removed by performing the following procedure: First, begin by familiarizing yourself with different parts of the Fuel Line, which are described in your stove instructions. Following the stove instructions, remove the Fuel Line from the Burner Assembly. Note: The DragonFly stove does not have a cable. For XGK model stoves, leave the Fuel Line and Enclosure intact while performing the following procedure. Remove the Jet by using the Jet and Cable Tool; turn Jet counterclockwise to loosen and remove. Using a common lubricant spray, direct the “straw” inside the Elbow and spray a small amount, such that the lubricant is directed inside the Fuel Line. Note: Orienting the Fuel Line vertically will facilitate better flow of lubricant into the Fuel Line. Let the Fuel Line soak for a short time; after which, refer to your stove instructions for Cleaning the Jet and Fuel Line. Pliers may have to be used to remove a cable that cannot be pulled out with the Jet and Cable Tool, regardless of using a lubricant. If pliers are used, grip the weld at the tip of the cable only. Do not grip the cable itself as this might result in fraying. A frayed cable can damage the Fuel Tube O-ring when connecting the stove with the pump; damaged O-rings can result in a dangerous fuel leaks, fire and personal injury.
How do I remove a stuck jet?
The following tip applies to both models of the WhisperLite stove, the SimmerLite stove, and the WindPro stove.
Note: Stuck Jets on the DragonFly and XGK stoves can be removed with a large screwdriver or a leverage-providing implement used in combination with the Jet and Cable Tool. See Stove Instruction Manual.
Stuck Jets can be removed by performing the following procedure: First, begin by familiarizing yourself with the Mixer Tube and different parts of the Fuel Line, these are described in your stove instructions. Following the stove instructions, remove the Fuel Line from the Burner Assembly. Once the Fuel Line is removed and free from the Legs, turn the Burner Assembly “upside-down,” placing it on a bench is preferable, with the slotted end of the Mixer Tube facing up. Then, orient the Fuel Line so that the Jet is also facing up. Re-insert the Elbow into the Mixer Tube, but the “wrong way,” with the Jet exposed rather than hidden, in other words the Jet should be “sticking out” so that it can be accessed with the Jet and Cable Tool. While supporting the Fuel Line and Burner Assembly, use the Jet and Cable Tool to unscrew the Jet, turning it in a counterclockwise fashion. For Jets that are severely stuck, a screwdriver may be placed through the “air hole” in the side of the Mixer Tube so that additional leverage is provided. Note: This configuration provides support for the Fuel Line so that it does not bend while the stuck Jet is being unscrewed.
What do I use to lubricate the fuel line before putting it in the pump?
We recommend MSR Pump Cup Oil (which is the same as Mineral Oil ). A tube of Pump Cup Oil is included with every MSR stove. If you have an older model stove that did not come with Pump Cup Oil, you can purchase a tube of it at your local MSR dealer. You can also use saliva or any NON-petroleum based lubricant. It is important to lubricate the fuel line in order to protect the tube o-ring.
How do I avoid the black soot that deposits on the bottom of my stove after I prime it?
Avoid the black soot by priming with alcohol or a priming paste (available at most camping stores). NOTE: Alcohol will NOT generate enough heat to prime your stove if you are burning kerosene or jet fuel. For these fuels prime your stove as described in the instructions.
Can I burn alcohol in my MSR stove?
No, MSR stoves will not burn alcohol, and alcohol will damage MSR Fuel Bottles.
What happens if water or snow gets inside the Reactor® stove burner head?
Remove the fuel canister and simply shake out as much liquid/snow, etc. as possible. Re-mount the stove on canister and light, following the stove’s included directions. You will see some steam as the remaining liquid vaporizes. The burner may not glow completely red until all water is gone, but there should be no further complications.
Always completely dry the Reactor stove before storing.
Understanding Prop 65
What is California Proposition 65?
Passed into law by California’s voters in 1986, Prop 65 is intended to help California residents make informed decisions about the products they buy.
The law states that companies selling products in California must display a warning when the product contains one or more of the approximately 800 chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.
Why has MSR placed a Proposition 65 label on some of its products?
By placing the Prop 65 warning on a product, MSR acknowledges that it contains one or more of the chemicals on the Prop 65 list, however the listed chemical may be well within the “no significant risk” range. MSR has not evaluated every product but out of caution, we include the warning.
Are consumers who use an MSR product with a Proposition 65 label at risk?
The label simply indicates that the product contains the chemical and because of that, there is a potential for exposure to it.
The California government states: “The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the product is unsafe.” The government explains, “You could think of Proposition 65 more as a ‘right to know’ law than a pure product safety law.”
For example, some MSR stoves contain brass. Exposure to brass is not itself harmful. However lead is a component of brass and should the brass be disrupted, a user could potentially come in contact with the lead. While the lead levels fall below the “no significant risk” range, MSR is still required to acknowledge its presence.
To learn more about California’s Prop 65, please visit: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/general-info/proposition-65-plain-language
What types of chemicals are on the Proposition 65 list?
The Prop 65 list contains a wide range of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals that are known to California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. They may be additives or ingredients in pesticides, common household products, food, drugs, dyes or solvents. They may be used in manufacturing and construction, or be the byproducts of chemical processes. Proposition 65 requires that the Governor of California maintain and publish a list of these harmful chemicals, and update it annually.
According to the state of California:
A chemical is listed if it has been classified as a reproductive toxicant or carcinogen by an "authoritative" organization on the subject. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, the National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer are considered authoritative for carcinogens. For reproductive toxicants, appropriate authorities include the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, and International Agency for Research on Cancer. Chemicals will also be listed if they are required to be labeled or identified as a carcinogen or as a reproductive toxicant by an agency of the state or federal government.
Cookware
What are the properties of titanium vs. aluminum vs. stainless steel?
Aluminum is the cookware of choice for all-around backcountry use. It conducts heat evenly, is easy to clean when hard anodized and even easier when coated with a nonstick finish. It is also extremely efficient.
Stainless steel is very durable; perfect for when your pots take a lot of abuse. It lies somewhere between aluminum and titanium in terms of its cooking ability/suitability.
Titanium cookware's biggest advantage is its light weight. Titanium pots are ideal for boiling water, because they can be made with very thin walls and transfer heat very efficiently. They tend to develop hot spots, however, making them less than ideal for cooking temperature-sensitive foods like eggs or pancakes.
Cookware's efficiency is also dependent on its color and material. Our testing has found that darker pots (esp. the bottom) are the most fuel efficient. Older cookware, which blackens through use, becomes more efficient than new cookware.
Will my MSR stove fit into my MSR cookset?
The SimmerLite™, WindPro™, PocketRocket® 2, PocketRocket® Deluxe, and SuperFly™ stoves are small enough to fit in an MSR 1-liter pot. Both PocketRocket stoves will also fit in the Titan™ Kettle 900mL and the Titan Cup 450mL. All other MSR stoves with a flexible fuel line will fit into all MSR cooksets that are 1.5 liters or larger, except the DragonFly™ stove which fits in a 2L pot or larger. The older MSR XGK™ stove will not fit inside a cookset because of its rigid fuel line. The stove and fuel bottle will however fit nicely in the side pocket of most backpacks.
Can I use my cookware directly on a fire?
Stainless steel pots may be used over open fire—with caution. You should expect some soot, and if you place the pot in too hot of an environment, some warping.
We do not recommend use of our aluminum or titanium cookware over open fire because they feature some plastic parts that could melt.
Why do MSR Alpine Pot Set lids have tabs on the sides?
Original MSR Alpine cooksets were sold with a strap to hold them together, rather than a stuff sack. When we designed the MSR Panhandler™ pot lifter, we did it with two upright tabs on the top of the pot lifter, which allow you to lift your pot lid by this tab. Our latest cookware has an attachment on the side that accepts our new, quick-release Talon™ pot handle, eliminating scratches on the inside of nonstick cookware while providing a secure, no-squeeze grip. It also folds to lock nested sets together.
What's the best way to wash MSR cookware?
All components except aluminum cookware are dishwasher safe. We recommend using a liquid detergent. Aluminum cookware should be hand-washed to prevent damage to the cookware’s surface.
Understanding Prop 65
What is California Proposition 65?
Passed into law by California’s voters in 1986, Prop 65 is intended to help California residents make informed decisions about the products they buy.
The law states that companies selling products in California must display a warning when the product contains one or more of the approximately 800 chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.
Why has MSR placed a Proposition 65 label on some of its products?
By placing the Prop 65 warning on a product, MSR acknowledges that it contains one or more of the chemicals on the Prop 65 list, however the listed chemical may be well within the “no significant risk” range. MSR has not evaluated every product but out of caution, we include the warning.
Are consumers who use an MSR product with a Proposition 65 label at risk?
The label simply indicates that the product contains the chemical and because of that, there is a potential for exposure to it.
The California government states: “The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the product is unsafe.” The government explains, “You could think of Proposition 65 more as a ‘right to know’ law than a pure product safety law.”
For example, some MSR stoves contain brass. Exposure to brass is not itself harmful. However lead is a component of brass and should the brass be disrupted, a user could potentially come in contact with the lead. While the lead levels fall below the “no significant risk” range, MSR is still required to acknowledge its presence.
To learn more about California’s Prop 65, please visit: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/general-info/proposition-65-plain-language
What types of chemicals are on the Proposition 65 list?
The Prop 65 list contains a wide range of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals that are known to California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. They may be additives or ingredients in pesticides, common household products, food, drugs, dyes or solvents. They may be used in manufacturing and construction, or be the byproducts of chemical processes. Proposition 65 requires that the Governor of California maintain and publish a list of these harmful chemicals, and update it annually.
According to the state of California:
A chemical is listed if it has been classified as a reproductive toxicant or carcinogen by an "authoritative" organization on the subject. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, the National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer are considered authoritative for carcinogens. For reproductive toxicants, appropriate authorities include the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, and International Agency for Research on Cancer. Chemicals will also be listed if they are required to be labeled or identified as a carcinogen or as a reproductive toxicant by an agency of the state or federal government.
Showshoes
What is the right size snowshoe?
The primary purposes of a snowshoe are to provide flotation and traction. Since all MSR® snowshoes deliver exceptional traction, your next consideration is flotation, and this is where size comes into play.
Once you’ve decided on a snowshoe, assess your weight, including all the gear and clothing you’ll be wearing the majority of the time you snowshoe. If you only go on a couple of overnights a year, don’t include that 50-pound pack—just your fully clothed weight, plus a daypack and water. Then consider the snow conditions you’re likely to travel in most often—deep, untracked powder, or groomed trails and established snowshoe routes. Are you at a high altitude or very far north where snow generally falls deep and light and a larger snowshoe is in order, or are you at lower elevations or in a coastal range where snow has high moisture content and generally consolidates rapidly, making a smaller snowshoe your best choice?
The idea is to find the smallest possible snowshoe that matches your needs in most–not all–situations so you can maximize your agility and efficiency. Now, with Modular Flotation tails available across all MSR adult snowshoes, we’ve made that easier than ever. Should you find yourself on the cusp between sizes, always go with the smaller one and then simply add tails for added flotation as needed.
What are the differences between the Evo™, Revo™ and Lightning™ snowshoes?
Each of these snowshoes offers outstanding traction, aggressive bindings, ergonomic deck shapes, Modular Flotation and excellent durability. However, when it’s all said and done, the plastic-deck Evo and Revo snowshoes are a bit more durable while the all-aluminum Lightning snowshoes offer our absolute greatest level of traction. You’ll find that because the Lightning’s 360° Traction™ Frame features a vertical wall of teeth all along the perimeter plus two crossmembers underneath, it offers slightly better traction on traverses. The decks of our Evo and Revo shoes are built from an incredibly tough, injection-molded plastic, giving them a slight advantage in durability in the course of normal use. These plastic decks also allow for greater flex underfoot while hiking. In contrast, the Lightning snowshoes offer a stiffer feel, and are quieter as you hike through harder-packed snow.
Learn more about their differences here!
How do I store my snowshoes?
Dry your snowshoes after each use. Then store them with bottoms together to keep the sharp under-bits from damaging other gear.
Why is traction so important?
Inadequate traction is horribly inefficient, with every misstep wasting precious energy. That’s why we provide the industry’s best traction, regardless of what shoe you purchase—from kid’s snowshoes, to our most aggressive shoes. The result is a far more enjoyable experience with the increased efficiency of solid, no-slip footing and the confidence to go anywhere.
What should I look for in a binding?
First and foremost, you should seek out bindings that suit your needs. Do you prioritize comfort or security? The best bindings do both. It’s also important to understand that regardless of what a tag says a binding does, it can’t do it if it’s frozen. Be leery of excessive use of nylon webbing and cordage–both absorb water and can leave your bindings rendered useless when frozen. Look for simplicity (fewer parts and potential for things to break) and light weight, and try them on in the store with the same footwear you’ll use in the field. Unless you have an exceptionally small or large foot, a good binding will be able to adapt to a range of footwear to keep your options open.
Tips for Choosing Your Snowshoe Binding & Perfecting Its Fit: video
Where are MSR snowshoes made?
The employees of MSR proudly build every snowshoe we make. Snowshoes sold in North America and Japan are built in our factory in the US, while those sold in Europe have some final assembly done in our Cork, Ireland facility.
Understanding Prop 65
What is California Proposition 65?
Passed into law by California’s voters in 1986, Prop 65 is intended to help California residents make informed decisions about the products they buy.
The law states that companies selling products in California must display a warning when the product contains one or more of the approximately 800 chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.
Why has MSR placed a Proposition 65 label on some of its products?
By placing the Prop 65 warning on a product, MSR acknowledges that it contains one or more of the chemicals on the Prop 65 list, however the listed chemical may be well within the “no significant risk” range. MSR has not evaluated every product but out of caution, we include the warning.
Are consumers who use an MSR product with a Proposition 65 label at risk?
The label simply indicates that the product contains the chemical and because of that, there is a potential for exposure to it.
The California government states: “The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the product is unsafe.” The government explains, “You could think of Proposition 65 more as a ‘right to know’ law than a pure product safety law.”
For example, some MSR stoves contain brass. Exposure to brass is not itself harmful. However lead is a component of brass and should the brass be disrupted, a user could potentially come in contact with the lead. While the lead levels fall below the “no significant risk” range, MSR is still required to acknowledge its presence.
To learn more about California’s Prop 65, please visit: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/general-info/proposition-65-plain-language
What types of chemicals are on the Proposition 65 list?
The Prop 65 list contains a wide range of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals that are known to California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. They may be additives or ingredients in pesticides, common household products, food, drugs, dyes or solvents. They may be used in manufacturing and construction, or be the byproducts of chemical processes. Proposition 65 requires that the Governor of California maintain and publish a list of these harmful chemicals, and update it annually.
According to the state of California:
A chemical is listed if it has been classified as a reproductive toxicant or carcinogen by an "authoritative" organization on the subject. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, the National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer are considered authoritative for carcinogens. For reproductive toxicants, appropriate authorities include the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, and International Agency for Research on Cancer. Chemicals will also be listed if they are required to be labeled or identified as a carcinogen or as a reproductive toxicant by an agency of the state or federal government.Understanding Prop 65
Water Treament
Why do I need a filter or purifier?
All surface waters have the potential to be contaminated with at least one of the three types of disease-causing microorganisms: protozoa, bacteria, and viruses. While it is true that you can drink directly from many water sources, it is critical to understand that each time you do, there is a chance of ingesting one of these bugs. Infection symptoms can range from an upset stomach to debilitating illness and, depending on where you are, can mean anything from a simple inconvenience to a life-threatening situation. Since microorganisms are impossible to see, taking the proper precautions with any water can help to ensure a safe trip.
How is a filter different from a purifier?
The main difference lies in the level of protection they provide. Generally speaking, a water filter is designed to remove waterborne protozoa and bacteria, but not viruses. A water purifier is designed to combat all three classes of microbes, including viruses.
Because North American backcountries are regarded as low-risk for viruses, filters typically offer a sufficient water treatment method. In places heavily trafficked by humans or where sanitation systems are poor, the risk for viruses increases. In these areas, such as in developing countries, a purifier is recommended.
Additionally, filters physically remove matter and microbes from the water. In contrast, a "purifier" can employ a variety of methods to do so, from physically removing the contaminants to disinfecting the water of them, through UV or chemical treatments.
Why the two treatment device options? The reason is, viruses are just too small for filters to catch. Far smaller than protozoa or bacteria, viruses slip through the technologies used in backpacking filters. Traditionally, UV light, chemical treatments or boiling were required to deactivate viruses by scrambling their DNA or killing them. Today, new advancements in physical purifiers provide a convenient option to physically remove viruses quickly and easily.
The flow rates of physical purifiers are generally slower than that of filters, because the internal media that removes contaminants has to be small enough to capture tiny viruses. This slows the rate at which water passes through the media, decreasing overall flow rate.
What is the scoop on protozoan parasites?
Protozoa are the largest of the waterborne bugs measuring in the one-micron range. Giardia and cryptosporidia are the most infamous of the group. The infective cysts and oocysts of protozoa are extremely robust and can survive for months in a water source. They thrive in domestic and wild animals as well as humans. Cryptosporidia oocysts are known for their resistance to chemical treatment. Most disinfectants are ineffective, and the few that are require long dwell times to do the job.
What is the scoop on bacteria?
Bacteria are an order of magnitude smaller than protozoa measuring in the 0.5 - 2 micron range. The most well-known bacteria are E. coli; others include Leptospira (which causes Leptospirosis), Campylobacter, Salmonella, and Shigella. Bacteria aren't as hearty, surviving in water only for weeks instead of months. However, unlike protozoa and viruses, which require a host to multiply, some bacteria can grow in water and so can be found in higher numbers than protozoa and viruses. Bacteria, like protozoa, are often carried by both animals and humans. Because of this, many water sources are contaminated with bacteria. Beware especially of sources near agricultural operations.
What is the scoop on viruses?
Viruses are the smallest type of pathogen, ranging between 0.02 - 0.3 microns. Waterborne viruses are very resilient and can survive for months. It is important to note that viruses are generally species-specific. In other words, those that infect animals do not infect humans and vice versa. Because of this, and the well-maintained sewage systems in developed countries, not as many water sources are contaminated with human viruses. However, in heavily traveled backcountry areas, viruses can be present where human waste is not disposed of properly. In developing countries with little or no sewage control, viruses are often widespread and purification in such countries should be standard procedure for all travelers.
What happens if I drink water that contains viruses, bacteria and protozoa?
First, it will usually take more than one organism to make you sick—around 10 for protozoa and viruses and 10 to 1,000,000 for bacteria depending on the species. The onset of symptoms can start anywhere from 10 hours to several weeks from the point of infection depending on the type and amount ingested, and constitution of the individual. Symptoms can range from nothing to diarrhea, abdominal cramps and pain, nausea, vomiting, muscle cramps, fever, fatigue, headache, chills, loss of appetite, and, in the case of hepatitis, dark urine and jaundice. Symptoms usually dissipate in a couple of days or weeks, again depending on the three elements above. Healthy adults will generally knock the illness without needing medical attention and without lasting effects. However, infants, young children, elderly, pregnant, and immune-compromised individuals are at higher risk of needing medical attention or having complications from an illness. Your location—a remote basecamp in Pakistan or a day hike close to home— will play a key role in the severity of your illness, should you become infected. For more information on diseases caused by specific pathogens, please visit www.cdc.gov.
What do MSR filters remove from the water?
A filter actually removes matter and microbes from the water while a "purifier" can employ a variety of methods to disinfect the water (such as UV or MIOX® or combination system like the MSR Sweetwater® purifier). A purifier must meet the EPA Guide Standard for Testing Microbiological Purifiers, which requires inactivation of all three classes of microbes: protozoa, bacteria and viruses. Filters in general claim to remove only protozoa and bacteria, making it adequate for most travel in developed countries. Some filters alone can qualify as a purifier, but since they are filtering to such a small pore size, they tend to clog quickly. Essentially the classification as a "purifier" means that the device must be capable of inactivating viruses, as well as protozoa and bacteria.
What does inactivate mean?
Inactivate means to damage a microorganism sufficiently to render it harmless.
How do I decide whether a filter or a purifier is best for me?
To decide whether you need a filter or a purifier, two important factors must be evaluated: water sources and susceptibility.
When evaluating water sources it is important to keep the following in mind: In general, protozoa and bacteria infect both animals and humans and are transmitted to water sources by animal and human waste. In contrast, waterborne viruses are species-specific and therefore transmitted to water sources by human waste alone. As a rule of thumb, remote areas with few people require (at least) filtration while popular areas with many human visitors require purification. If traveling in developing countries with poor sanitation, purification will be your safest choice.
Susceptibility is another good way to determine needs. If the treated water is to be consumed by infants or young children, elderly, or pregnant or immunocompromised individuals, then it is essential to use a purifier for the highest level of protection. Purification is also best for people who tend to get sick. If you rarely get sick and do not fit into any categories mentioned above, then filtration may be adequate depending on the water source.
What pore size or micron rating are the MSR filters?
Micron ratings aren't always the best way to gauge effectiveness. Test procedures for micron ratings vary so greatly that comparing them is misleading. In addition, micron ratings for filters do not tell you how the product will perform with actual bugs. There is an EPA Guide Standard for Testing Microbiological Purifiers, which describes how to test products to determine if they are removing or inactivating the proper number of pathogens in different types of water throughout the life of the device. When looking for a microfilter or purifier ask if the product has been tested according to the EPA Guide Standard and passed. For a microfilter, meeting the EPA Guide Standard means removing 99.9% of protozoa and removing 99.9999% of bacteria in all required water types. To be classified as a purifier, the device must meet the EPA Guide Standard for the removal of protozoa and bacteria as well as virus which must be inactivated to 99.99% in all required water types. All of the MSR filters and purifiers have passed the levels of inactivation required by the EPA Guide Standard with flying colors.
Will my filter or purifier protect me from bioterrorism?
As a result of the September 11 attack and the following concerns about bioterrorism, we have received a number of inquiries regarding our microfilters' ability to protect against such threats. MSR microfilters will protect you from harmful microorganisms that are 0.2 microns or larger. The anthrax bacteria, for example, measures about 8 microns and would be removed by all MSR filters. Additionally, if a water reservoir were contaminated with a biological agent, it is unlikely that enough organisms could be added or would survive the treatment process of the water plant to provide an infectious dose at the tap. Our water supply is more likely to be compromised or cut off completely as a result of a natural disaster, such as an earthquake or hurricane, or by a general state of disorder following any kind of attack or natural disaster. By including a good water treatment device (and knowing how to use it) in your emergency kit, you will be prepared for most situations.
Do MSR filters and purifiers remove chemical contaminants from the water?
MSR filters and purifiers provide microbiologically safe drinking water. Several MSR filters feature a carbon component that reduces some chemical contaminates such as herbicides, pesticides, and volatile organic compounds (VOCs). However, MSR filters or purifiers will not protect you from high chemical concentrations or heavy metal contamination. Do your best to avoid water sources such as mining tailing ponds or those near agricultural operations.
How will tannins (tea-colored water) affect my filter or purifier?
MSR filters will remove some tannins from the water you are filtering. Like other contaminants, they will clog your filter over time, requiring you to clean the cartridge. Tannins will react with disinfectants and can make treated water taste unpleasant. If possible, look for a clear water source to prolong the life of your filter and improve the taste of purified water.
What is the warranty on MSR filters and purifiers?
MSR filters and purifiers come with a limited warranty. Contact our Warranty and Repairs Department at 1-800-531-9531 if there are any problems with your filter or purifier and they will be happy to help with solutions.
Understanding Prop 65
What is California Proposition 65?
Passed into law by California’s voters in 1986, Prop 65 is intended to help California residents make informed decisions about the products they buy.
The law states that companies selling products in California must display a warning when the product contains one or more of the approximately 800 chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.
Why has MSR placed a Proposition 65 label on some of its products?
By placing the Prop 65 warning on a product, MSR acknowledges that it contains one or more of the chemicals on the Prop 65 list, however the listed chemical may be well within the “no significant risk” range. MSR has not evaluated every product but out of caution, we include the warning.
Are consumers who use an MSR product with a Proposition 65 label at risk?
The label simply indicates that the product contains the chemical and because of that, there is a potential for exposure to it.
The California government states: “The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the product is unsafe.” The government explains, “You could think of Proposition 65 more as a ‘right to know’ law than a pure product safety law.”
For example, some MSR stoves contain brass. Exposure to brass is not itself harmful. However lead is a component of brass and should the brass be disrupted, a user could potentially come in contact with the lead. While the lead levels fall below the “no significant risk” range, MSR is still required to acknowledge its presence.
To learn more about California’s Prop 65, please visit: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/general-info/proposition-65-plain-language
What types of chemicals are on the Proposition 65 list?
The Prop 65 list contains a wide range of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals that are known to California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. They may be additives or ingredients in pesticides, common household products, food, drugs, dyes or solvents. They may be used in manufacturing and construction, or be the byproducts of chemical processes. Proposition 65 requires that the Governor of California maintain and publish a list of these harmful chemicals, and update it annually.
According to the state of California:
A chemical is listed if it has been classified as a reproductive toxicant or carcinogen by an "authoritative" organization on the subject. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, the National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer are considered authoritative for carcinogens. For reproductive toxicants, appropriate authorities include the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, and International Agency for Research on Cancer. Chemicals will also be listed if they are required to be labeled or identified as a carcinogen or as a reproductive toxicant by an agency of the state or federal government.
If I own a TrailShot filter, can I purchase the dirty water bag and adapter to create my own Trail Base gravity system?
Not at this time. Your TrailShot filter is not compatible with the gravity components of the Trail Base Water Filter Kit. Therefore, we don’t sell those gravity components separately. While the TrailShot filter and the small filter in the Trail Base Kit look similar, they are indeed different—particularly their spouts and prefilters. Therefore, the TrailShot will not integrate with the Trail Base’s gravity components. We are considering making design adjustments that will allow for integration in the future.
What is a purge valve and hose, and why does the Guardian Gravity Purifier have one?
The Guardian Gravity Purifier features a purge hose and valve to self-clean the system, no backflushing required. Open the purge valve to flush dirt and air until the water color matches the source water and is free of bubbles. This helps increase the flow rate, because air trapped in the purifier cartridge can reduce water flow. Hold the cartridge horizontally or gently tap the cartridge as water flows to help release the air.
Please note, the purge valve releases highly concentrated dirty water from the purifier. Do not allow any drops from the purge hose to splash into your clean water.
Why is my gravity filter or purifier flow rate slow?
Gravity filters and purifiers rely on the physics of gravity to pull water down through the filter/purifier media and into your clean water receptacle. The higher the dirty reservoir bag is above the clean water output, the better the flow rate will be.
To increase the flow rate, first try hanging the reservoir bag as high as you can above the clean water output. Second, make sure to purge air out of the system following the directions included with the filter or purifier (also found in the Videos section).
If your filter or purifier has seen a significant amount of use, it may be time for a replacement filter/purifier piece.
MSR Reservoirs
How do I dry my MSR reservoir?
MSR reservoirs are easily dried. Prop them open with a spoon or other utensil to let them air dry. Alternately, hang them on a plastic bag dryer, widely available at kitchen supply stores and numerous online retailers.
How do I freeze my MSR reservoir?
A frozen reservoir makes a great ice pack and, during the dog days of summer, delivers a steady source of cold, refreshing hydration. Lay your reservoir half-full on its side in the freezer with all air purged. Do not over-fill. Water expands as it freezes and this can burst your reservoir.
How do I clean my MSR reservoir?
Use hot, soapy water and rinse thoroughly with hot water. For tough cleaning jobs, add 1/4 cup of baking soda to 3/4 cup of water per liter and shake for 30 seconds. Add 1/4 cup lemon juice and wait a moment for the effervescence to subside. Shake 10 seconds and vent by loosening cap away from face. Repeat shaking and venting three times. Expel as much air as possible, cap bottle, and allow to soak 20 minutes. Rinse thoroughly with hot water. Caution: When adding lemon juice to baking soda, effervescence occurs and will cause pressure to build inside your reservoir. Vent often.
How do I disinfect my MSR reservoir?
To disinfect, add one ounce of unscented household bleach (such as Clorox Regular or Clorox Ultra) to one liter of clean water. Mix for 10 seconds. Fill drinking tube with solution and leave overnight. Rinse thoroughly and air dry.
My bite valve comes off too easily. What should I do?
The best way to restore a snug fit between the bite valve and the drinking tube is to remove the bite valve from the drinking tube. Next, cut a small section off the end of the drinking tube. Clean the bite valve and drink tube with rubbing alcohol, lick the end of the drinking tube and place the bite valve back on the end. After it dries, there should be an excellent seal.
How do I prevent the water in my hydration system from freezing in cold weather?
To help keep drink tubes and bite valves from freezing up, sip often to maintain flow, then blow any residual water back into the reservoir after you’ve finished drinking. It helps to squeeze the bite valve momentarily to remove any last drops. Using our Bite Valve & Drink Tube Insulator deters freezing, too.
Also, even if you are using the Bite Valve & Drink Tube Insulator, it still helps to keep as much of the drinking tube covered as possible, such as routing it inside a pack, strap, or jacket. You can also start off the day with warm or hot water in the reservoir, packing any extra clothing layers around it.
Is there a way to filter into my reservoir without removing it from my pack?
Yes. Simply remove your bite valve and connect the end of your hose directly to your filtration system’s outflow port. This method is compatible with all MSR®filters. Using an AutoFlow™filter system, this method creates one of the lightest, most compact and efficient means possible of getting water.
My water sloshes around in my reservoir when riding or running. Can I make it stop?
Absolutely. Simply turn your reservoir upside down after filling it. Then simultaneously squeeze the reservoir and the bite valve to purge all the air. This will eliminate sloshing.
Prop 65
What is California Proposition 65?
Proposition 65 is the Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act passed by voters in the State of California in 1986. The act was created to inform people about possible exposure to chemicals known by the State of California to cause cancer, birth defects and/or other reproductive harm.
Why has MSR placed a Proposition 65 label on some of its products?
By placing the Prop 65 warning on a product, MSR acknowledges that it contains one or more of the chemicals on the Prop 65 list, however the listed chemical may be well within the “no significant risk” range. MSR has not evaluated every product but out of caution, we include the warning.
Are consumers who use an MSR product with a Proposition 65 label at risk?
The label simply indicates that the product contains the chemical and because of that, there is a potential for exposure to it.
The California government states: “The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the product is unsafe.” The government explains, “You could think of Proposition 65 more as a ‘right to know’ law than a pure product safety law.”
For example, some MSR stoves contain brass. Exposure to brass is not itself harmful. However lead is a component of brass and should the brass be disrupted, a user could potentially come in contact with the lead. While the lead levels fall below the “no significant risk” range, MSR is still required to acknowledge its presence.
To learn more about California’s Prop 65, please visit: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/general-info/proposition-65-plain-language
What types of chemicals are on the Proposition 65 list?
The Prop 65 list contains a wide range of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals that are known to California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. They may be additives or ingredients in pesticides, common household products, food, drugs, dyes or solvents. They may be used in manufacturing and construction, or be the byproducts of chemical processes. Proposition 65 requires that the Governor of California maintain and publish a list of these harmful chemicals, and update it annually.
According to the state of California:
A chemical is listed if it has been classified as a reproductive toxicant or carcinogen by an "authoritative" organization on the subject. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, the National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer are considered authoritative for carcinogens. For reproductive toxicants, appropriate authorities include the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, and International Agency for Research on Cancer. Chemicals will also be listed if they are required to be labeled or identified as a carcinogen or as a reproductive toxicant by an agency of the state or federal government.
HyperFlow ™
What is Hollow Fiber technology?
Hollow fiber is the filtration media used in both the HyperFlow™Microfilter and the AutoFlow™Gravity System. Commonly used in areas such as municipal water filtration systems and medical applications, this technology is ideally suited to the outdoor market. To understand how hollow fibers work, think of a straw with permeable walls. Water is forced through the walls (filtered) and clean water flows out through the center channel. The real advantage comes when a cluster of hollow fiber straws is used, offering a dramatic increase in the amount of surface area available for filtration when compared with any other type of filter media. The benefits are much higher flow rates and a far lighter, more compact system.
How effective are hollow fibers?
Our system meets the EPA Guide Standard for the Removal of Bacteria and Protozoa. The pore size of the media is 0.2 microns.
The prefilter on my HyperFlow won’t lie flat. What can I do?
This can happen from tightly winding the hose around your filter for storage. To get the twists out of the hose, simply pull straight out to stretch it. You can also pinch the hose at one end and slide your fingers all the way down to the other end, allowing any coils to unwind on the way.
Why Backflush?
You must backflush regularly to maintain optimal performance of the filter cartridge. This is especially true in murky or very silty water. Since hollow fiber is not a depth-based media like ceramics, you don’t clean by removing clogged material from the exterior of the filter media. Instead, you must rinse the particulate that collects on the outside of the Hollow Fiber membranes. Infrequent backflushing makes the particulate harder to remove and more difficult to restore the media’s flow capacity. We recommend backflushing anywhere from every 8 liters to after each use, depending on water quality. The more you backflush, the better your flow performance and the longer life you can expect from your filter cartridge.
How do I backflush?
Click here for a video demonstration. Before leaving for the field give it a couple practice runs at home.
If you do air lock the filter cartridge, you will just need to reverse the check valves to their forward flow orientation, and pump water forward through the pump a couple of times. You have not damaged the fibers by air locking the filter.
I am having trouble backflushing. I pull back on the pump and no water comes through into the pump cylinder.
The most common problem with backflushing is getting air-lock in the filter cartridge. This can be avoided by ensuring that there is ONLY water (no air) present at the Pump Outlet. Read through the instructions for backflushing and check out the instructional video for assistance.
My filter clogged very quickly in the silty water I’m filtering. Is there anything I can do to extend the life of my filter?
Silty Water
Filtering very silty water can shorten the life of any filter. Here are some pointers to help minimize the effect of silt on your HyperFlow™:
- Collect water in a pot or other vessel and allow the silt to settle out prior to filtering.
- Strain water with a bandana or large coffee filter prior to filtering.
- Use the Sweetwater® SiltStopper™ prefilter in conjunction with the pump. This will help trap silt particles before they hit the biological microfilter. This will reduce flow rates, but help prolong the life of your cartridge in challenging environments. (We recently updated the SiltStopper prefilter to accommodate the larger tube size of the HyperFlow microfilter. Earlier versions may need a zip tie to make sure the tubing stays attached firmly.)
Tea-colored (Tannic) water
This color of water typically comes from a high concentration of decaying vegetation adjacent to, or in, streams and lakes, resulting in a variety of organic acids. These include, but are not limited to, tannic, fulvic, and humic acids. These acids and the accompanying water conditions are very hard on ALL types of water filters.
Get your water elsewhere if you can. However, if no alternative exists and you are predominantly filtering these waters, we recommend using an MSR®MiniWorks®EX filter. Its ceramic element will collect all these impurities in its outer-most layer, allowing you to scrub away the clogged portion to restore normal flow rates. If you must use a HyperFlow filter, backflushing frequently will help to minimize the effect of these impurities. When you return home, add 2 drops of unscented household bleach to one liter of water and backflush this solution through the filter. This will help to break up organics that might be clogging the filter and provide the recommended treatment of your system for long-term storage.
Limited use in these conditions will not have a dramatic effect, but extended use can permanently impair hollow fiber media.
I’ve heard there were issues with some early versions of the HyperFlow. Have they been resolved?
In early 2008, we identified a flow performance issue with some of the first hollow fiber filter cartridges shipped with MSR HyperFlow microfilters. The performance issue did not affect the product’s ability to filter safe drinking water but could be frustrating, as the flow rate of some filters did not perform to product specifications. We have rectified the issue and all HyperFlow filter cartridges produced after January 2008 perform to flow specifications.
Are there any long-term storage recommendations?
When storing your filter for extended periods– essentially any time longer than two weeks, we recommend mixing 2 drops of household bleach (no fragrances or dyes) with 1 liter of water and pumping this mixture through the filter. This will help prevent the formation of biofilm (algae growth) which will reduce flow rates.Do not use more than recommended amounts of bleach. High levels of bleach can damage fibers.
What about freezing?
Once you have used your HyperFlow and wet the Hollow Fiber filter media, the fibers will remain wet for a very long time. Therefore, it is important to prevent it from freezing which can permanently damage the filter media. If you are traveling in areas where you are expecting freezing or near freezing temperatures, bring the filter into your tent - or even your sleeping bag if freezing is a definite concern. The Cleanside cover is watertight and will prevent any leakage wherever you store it. If you think your filter may be damaged from freezing, perform a Filter Test before the next use.
What if the filter takes a hard drop?
The casing of the pump is designed to protect the Filter Cartridge from most drops, but direct drops onto cement (or similarly hard surfaces) and any drops above 4 feet (1.2 m) should be avoided. If a Filter Cartridge outside the pump housing is ever dropped after being wetted, you should replace the Filter Cartridge. (We don’t recommend removing the Filter Cartridge from the protective pump housing except to replace the Filter Cartridge.) If you think your filter may have been damaged from a drop, perform a Filter Test before the next use.
Can I tell if I’ve damaged the hollow fibers?
Yes, you can, but not just by looking at the Filter Cartridge. If you have experienced a hard drop or may be concerned that your pump has frozen, there is a Filter Test Guide that came with your system. This includes instructions for checking the integrity of your filter. Also, please view this informational video about checking filter integrity. Essentially you’ll be intentionally air-locking your filter to prove the integrity of the hollow fibers. In preparation you need to make sure that your filter is fully wetted out. This means that you should have pumped several liters of water before performing this test. Generally your filter cartridge will not dry much during storage, so as long as you have used the pump a few times, you should be in good shape.
MiniWorks ® EX / WaterWorks ® EX
Can I upgrade my old MiniWorks with an EX filter?
Marathon™EX ceramic cartridges are compatible with all WaterWorks and MiniWorks microfilters, old and new. Using it in a pre-2003 filter will increase a MiniWorks filter's output by approximately 25%, thanks to the new AirSpring Accumulator™.
What are the materials in the EX filters?
The Marathon ceramic element is made from diatomaceous earth that's heated to the point where it just begins to melt. Most particles are caught within about .005 inch of the surface. When it clogs, you abrade away the clogged pores, making them immediately ready for more use, with almost 100% recovery after each cleaning. Marathon ceramic provides long-lasting protection from protozoa and bacteria. A block carbon core reduces tastes, odors, some chemicals, and many pesticides. The WaterWorks microfilter also incorporates a PES (polyethersulfone) membrane filter, which passes the test for a sterilizing or pharmaceutical-grade filter. It serves as a safety net, providing a second fail-safe seal.
How long will my ceramic filter last?
How long a filter lasts will vary radically from one water source to the next. The ceramic element can last up to 2000 liters. Filter-life ratings are based on best-case scenarios because the testing is performed with clean lab water. Generally you can assume that your filter will last between 50 and 100% of the rated life.
How much water will my filter pump before clogging?
Normal conditions may allow a user to filter between 10 and 20 liters between cleaning. Please note that water quality varies a lot with the season and water source. In general, the more turbid (cloudy) the water, the more frequently your filter will require cleaning and eventually replacement. The MiniWorks is one of the most cost-effective portable treatment devices currently available.
Why is the handle on my filter so hard to push?
There are three possible causes of this. The most likely is that one of the microfilters is clogged. Review the instructions for cleaning the ceramic filter. The PES membrane (WaterWorks microfilter only) may also be clogged. It will have to be replaced or removed altogether. Lastly, the piston O-ring may be very dry, causing friction. Lubricate it with the silicone lubricant provided in the maintenance kit (or use lip balm or petroleum jelly).
Why is the handle on my water filter so hard to pull?
If the handle is hard to pull, something is obstructing the flow of water into the filter. Clean the inlet foam and remove any kinks in the inlet hose.
Why does the handle on my filter feel limp when pumping?
The most common reason for a limp handle is dirt under the umbrella valve. Remove the head of your water filter to expose the umbrella valve. Rinse under it or pull it off and rinse. Reinstall.
Why does my filter squeak when I am pumping?
The squeaking you hear is probably caused by actuation of the pressure-relief valve. This valve is designed to release when there is excessive pressure. Water goes back out the intake hose so you stay dry. You can tell if your relief valve is releasing by watching bubbles in the intake hose—if they go back and forth when you pump, the relief valve is working. It may be time to clean your ceramic filter (reference your owner's manual for complete details), or maybe you are pumping too fast. Do not pump faster than one stroke per second for best efficiency. Older MSR filters sometimes squeak in the pump head, piston pins, and bushings. You can eliminate the squeak with a tiny dab of lubricant on these parts. Newer MSR filters have the lubricant molded right into the pins and bushings, eliminating the squeak.
How should I store my EX filters?
Remove the ceramic element and air dry for 3–5 days. This will prevent growth of mold, mildew, and bacteria. Wash and dry other filter parts thoroughly before long-term storage.
I forgot to dry out my filter before putting it away—what should I do now?
The ceramic cartridge, which comes as standard equipment in the WaterWorks and MiniWorks, can be boiled to kill bacteria that may grow in it. Always let the water cool down before removing the ceramic cartridge from the water. Removing it early can damage the plastic end caps. (Cold water can be added to the hot water to speed this process.) Dry thoroughly before storing. FYI: Because the WaterWorks microfilter has a bacteria-proof membrane immediately downstream from the ceramic cartridge, bacteria cannot get into the water you drink even if it grows in the ceramic.
What happens if my filter freezes?
If you anticipate that you will encounter freezing temperatures, make sure you drain the filter of excess water after each use to protect it from damage. If the filter does freeze, bring it inside the tent or other warm place to thaw, or follow the directions (in the instructions) for boiling the cartridge.
Can I use the Sweetwater® Purifier Solution with the MiniWorks?
Unfortunately, no. The SweetWater Purifier System and Solution are regulated by the EPA and have undergone extensive laboratory testing to verify their efficacy as a system. SweetWater Purifier Solution is carefully formulated to inactivate viruses remaining in water that has been pumped through a SweetWater Microfilter. Filters vary in performance and it is likely that more or less disinfectant may be required to achieve purification with other filters. Along the same lines, for the solution to work independently of a filter, you would need a very strong dose—to the point of tasting offensive. The wait time would also be much longer than five minutes. Finally, cryptosporidia, which would have been removed by the filter, would not be effectively inactivated by use of the SweetWater Purifier Solution alone.
Global Health
What kind of salt does the SE200 Chlorine Maker require?
Any kind of table salt (no MSG or other non-NaCl flavor substances). We’ve used brown rock salts in Thailand and flakey salts from fancy restaurants. It all works. However, larger grained salt may require the user to mix more salt into the salt brine bottle. This is also true for rock salt. Some salts have preservative agents that take up space. These also may require more salt mixed into the salt brine bottle, than the instructions recommend. Simply remember: If you get a low salt light, just add more salt!
How long can I keep the salt brine mixture?
It’s best to use it within one year.
How long will the solution with a chlorine concentration last? That is, what’s its shelf life?
It’s best to use it within about 24 hours.
How do I make a disinfection solution for my hands and surfaces?
Make one batch of chlorine in the SE200 Community Chlorine Maker (50 mL) and add it to 750 mL of plain tap water, creating a total of 800 mL of hand-washing solution. The chlorine concentration of this solution is 500 mg/L, which is what the CDC and WHO recommend for hand washing.
For surface sanitization, the CDC and WHO recommend using a solution with a chlorine concentration of 1,000 mg/L. They recommend spraying the surface enough to fully wet the entire surface, and then letting it air dry. To create this solution, make one batch of chlorine (50 mL) and add it to 350 mL of plain tap water, creating a total of 400 mL of surface sanitizing solution.
What kind of battery do I need to operate the SE200 Chlorine Maker?
Any 12 volt battery over 7 amp-hours. These are typically motorcycle or car batteries and range from 7 amp-hours to 80 amp-hours (though you can find them even bigger).
Don’t forget to buy a charger at the time that you buy the battery. Ask the store owner which charger to use with your battery.
What kind of fuse is in the fuse case on the SE200 cord?
A 5 amp fuse.
How do I know the water is safe to drink after treating it with the SE200 Chlorine Maker?
Use the chlorine test strips provided. The SE200 kit comes with 10 chlorine test strips that will help you determine if the water has a safe chlorine residual. You can use any chlorine test strips that test in a range from 0-5ppm. The target concentration range is 0.2 to 2 ppm, 30 minutes after treating water.
What do I do if my SE200 Chlorine Maker breaks?
First, check the troubling-shooting options for common issues. You may just need to charge your battery, or add more salt (the two most common problems).
If your device still isn’t working, and you suspect it’s a manufacturer’s defect, please email global.health@cascadedesigns.com or call 1-800-531-9531. Whatever the issue is, our customer service department will help you figure out what is wrong and what to do about it.
How can I get replacement chlorine test strips?
You can use any pool chlorine test strips on the market that test a range of 0-5ppm.
Can I use wall power with the SE200 Chlorine Maker instead of a car battery?
Yes. You can purchase a power supply.
Does the SE200 Chlorine Maker come with a warranty?
Yes, it comes with a one year limited warranty that protects against manufacturer defects. If something is not working properly, MSR Global Health wants to hear about it.
What kind of water does the SE200 Chlorine Maker require?
Any water that you’re planning to drink after treatment. Start with the clearest water possible, and avoid extremely murky or sludgy water.