Hubba™ NX Solo Backpacking Tent

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Hubba™ NX Solo Backpacking Tent

Our best-selling freestanding solo tent.
  • Ultralight: Minimum weight is 1.12 kg / 2 lb 7 oz; two Fast & Light options from .73 kg / 1 lb 10 oz.
  • Maximum Space: Head and elbow room throughout tent; large side entry vestibule to store gear.
  • Livable: Large StayDry door with built-in rain gutter; adaptable, cross-ventilating rainfly.
  • Easy Setup & Packing: Unified hub-and-pole system with color-coded clips; ultra-compact compression stuff sack.
  • Optimized symmetrical geometry and non-tapered floor
  • Large, easy-entry D-shaped StayDry door and vestibule
  • Side entry zipper orientation
  • Rainfly kickstand vent
  • Adjustable rainfly (roll-up vestibule & stargazer view)
  • Light gray rainfly color (neutral light)
  • Adjustable integrated stake-out loops
  • Lightweight reflective guy-outs
  • Durable high-tenacity nylon fabrics
  • Reinforced Infinity bar tacks and lap-felled seams
  • Durashield-coated rainfly and bathtub-style floor
  • Compression stuff sack with pull handle
  • Compatible with the Universal 1 Person Regular Footprint, sold separately

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The Hubba NX solo backpacking tent offers the most livable accommodations in a lightweight freestanding design. Engineered for 3-season camping, the light and compact tent won’t slow you down, whether you’re striking out early to earn solo views along a popular route, or finding your stride on a 10-day trek into the Alaskan wilderness. The tent’s optimized, symmetrical geometry and non-tapered floor maximize space—because you didn’t head out into the backcountry to feel constrained—while other precision-engineered features, from the StayDry door to the adaptable, cross-ventilating rainfly, make the tent so livable, you won’t want to come home.
SKU:
06203
Size:
1
Color:
Green
Capacity:
1
Fast & Light® Weight w/ F&L Body (Standard):
2 lb 1 oz
Fast & Light® Weight w/ F&L Body (Metric):
0.93 kg
Minimum Weight (Standard):
2 lb 7 oz
Minimum Weight (Metric):
1.12 kg
Packaged Weight (Standard):
2 lb 14 oz
Packaged Weight (Metric):
1.29 kg
Floor Dimensions (Standard) in:
85 x 30 in
Floor Dimensions (Metric) cm:
216 x 76 cm
Floor Area (Standard):
18 sq. ft
Floor Area (Metric):
1.67 sq. m
Vestibule Area (Standard):
9 sq. ft
Vestibule Area (Metric):
0.84 sq. m
Tent Volume (Standard):
26 cu. ft
Number of Poles:
1 DAC Featherlite NFL
Tent Volume (Metric):
736 liters
Interior Peak Height (Standard):
36 in
Interior Peak Height (Metric):
91 cm
Packed Size (Standard):
18 x 6 in
Packed Size (Metric):
46 x 15 cm
Number of Doors:
1
Freestanding:
yes
Rainfly Fabric:
20D ripstop nylon 1200mm Durashield™ polyurethane & silicone
Canopy Fabric:
20D ripstop nylon
Mesh Type:
15D nylon micromesh
Floor Fabric:
30D ripstop nylon 3000mm DuraShield polyurethane & DWR
Country of Origin:
Made in Vietnam
Vestibule Volume (Metric):
241 liters
Vestibule Volume (Standard):
8.5 cu. ft
Body Weight (Metric):
0.39 kg
Body Weight (Standard):
14 oz

Collapsible content

What is solution-dyed fabric?

Solution-dyed fabric uses pre-dyed fibers to minimize the water and energy required to color the fabric. This means that color, or pigment, is added to the material producing the completed fabric. Compared to conventional batch-dyeing—the process of dyeing already produced fabric— solution dyeing requires significantly less water and energy, reducing waste and carbon emissions.

Why do actual weights sometimes differ from published weights?

Although we try to be as accurate as possible with our published weights, MSR, like all manufacturers, must make educated guesses as to what the final weights of our tents will be. Because of this, you may notice your tent weighing a few ounces above or below its advertised specs. Such discrepancies are common among tents due to the nature of the product. During the manufacturing process, variations in coatings and fabrics can lead to modest weight differences. In lightweight tents, this equates to a mere ounce or two. In larger tents, it can be a bit more.

Here are a few reasons for those weight variances:

  • Coating variances: The thickness in coatings on tent fabric can vary a bit from one tent to another. Fabrics are produced in batches and called “lots,” and there can be a slight weight difference between lots as well as within lots.
  • Fabric variances: Because tent fabric is hand cut in up to 200 layers at once, some pieces may be cut just outside the line, making certain parts slightly larger and thus heavier.
  • Scale accuracy: At MSR, weights are determined using our calibrated lab scales, which are more accurate than normal household scales.
  • Added products: Brands may decide at the last minute to include more stakes or guy cords, which will add to the packaged weight.
To learn more about how we define tent weights, please visit our blog post on this topic!

What are packaged and minimum weights?

At MSR, we voluntarily follow ASTM International F 1934-98 standards around these two tent industry terms. In accordance with this standard, packaged weight includes the total weight of the packaged contents off the shelf. Minimum weight, by comparison, refers to the combined weight of the tent body, rainfly (if applicable) and tent poles, but not any of the other items that may appear in the package, such as tent stakes, guy cords, stuff sack, etc.

Many MSR backpacking tents can be pitched using only the rainfly, poles and footprint, and in our tent specs we call this non-industry standard setup option our Fast & Light weight.

To learn more about packaged weight vs. minimum, and the manufacturing processes that can affect them, check out our blog post on the topic.

What defines "waterproof" in a tent and what does the "mm" rating mean?

For an MSR tent, waterproof means that all external fabric has been coated with our exceptional polyurethane coatings and the seams are watertight out of the bag. "mm" refers to millimeters and is paired with a number to represent a standardized measurement of how waterproof a coating is. For instance, a 1500mm coating will withstand a 1500mm (5') column of water for more than one minute before a single drop might appear through the fabric. That's strong enough to prevent rain from leaking into a tent in a hurricane-force storm.

Why should I get a footprint?

We recommend that you use an MSR footprint (sold separately) underneath your tent. Customized to fit each specific model, it will not only keep your tent floor clean and dry, but it will also protect it from excessive abrasion, prolonging the life of the tent. In addition, some of our tents can be set up with just the footprint and fly, creating an incredibly light, minimalist alternative to a full tent.

How do I prevent mildew?

One of the easiest ways to damage your tent is by not drying it as quickly as possible after it gets wet. Storing a wet tent for as little as 24 hours in warm weather is likely to start the process of mildew formation. Mildew can permanently damage the waterproof coatings by causing them to separate from the fabric, but mild to severe staining is more common. Mildew stains are permanent. They cannot be removed without potential harm to the fabric coatings and are not covered by warranty. Even when your tent appears to be dry after use, it is always best to assure it is completely dry before storing. Hang it outside or pile it loosely in your house for a few days, turning it inside and out to assure it has dried everywhere. Never machine dry your tent as the heat can melt the fabric.

How do I repair tears?

You can do minor repairs in the field using one of several alternatives. We offer waterproof, self-adhesive patches (sold separately) for all of the fabrics and mesh on your tent. Seam sealants are also a good alternative for small holes, or use duct tape for minor, temporary field repairs. If you use duct tape, be sure to remove it as soon as you are through with your trip. The adhesive will eventually eat away at the fabric and you will end up needing a larger patch. We recommend carrying at least one of these as a precaution. If you have a large tear, our Product Service Center can also fix your tent after you return from your trip.

How do I seam seal my tent?

If you start to notice leaks along your seams, seam sealing can make them waterproof again, extending the life of your tent. The process can be easier than you might think. We put together this video to help guide you through.

What's the best way to clean my tent?

Cleaning your tent is not necessary unless it has an offensive odor or becomes heavily soiled. If heavily soiled, the pressure from a regular garden hose will remove most loose dirt. For more severe cleaning, set up your tent and hand wash it with warm water, a sponge and mild, non-detergent soap. Do not use dishwashing liquid, detergent, bleach, pre-soaking solutions, or spot removers. Rinse well. Dry your tent by pitching it or line-drying it. Never dry clean, machine- wash or machine-dry your tent. Any of these methods can remove all the waterproof coatings from the tent.

Are the shorter Hubba Hubba Bikepacking tent poles compatible with other Hubba Hubba series tents?

The shorter tent poles for our new Hubba Hubba 1 and Hubba Hubba 2 bikepacking tents will not work for previous generation Hubba Hubba tent series (non-bikepacking models). This is due to the specific geometry and design configuration. These pole sets are made out of different materials and the arc and curvature of the tent is actually different because of it. The tent body is then designed differently to fit snugly within that curvature, and thus, the two different tent poles are not interchangeable in between these models. Another question we get asked is whether or not the front mount bikepacking bag/stuff sack can be purchased separately to be used with a different (non-packing) Hubba Hubba series tent. The short answer is no, because the bikepacking tent poles are shorter - one of the main draws of this design for packability purposes, and it's ability to fit well between handlebars. The longer pole sets on other models will not fit into the Hubba Hubba bikepacking tent front mount stuff sack. Do you need tent poles for your non MSR tent, such as Walrus or Moss?For any tent poles that we do not make/no longer make (Moss, Walrus, etc.), please check with Tent Pole Technologies for information.

What happens if one of my poles breaks?

If a tent pole breaks, you can make a temporary splint with the pole repair sleeve. Slide the repair sleeve over the broken section and tape or wedge in place with a stick to hold it secure.

Understanding Prop 65

What is California Proposition 65?

Passed into law by California’s voters in 1986, Prop 65 is intended to help California residents make informed decisions about the products they buy.

The law states that companies selling products in California must display a warning when the product contains one or more of the approximately 800 chemicals known to the state of California to cause cancer and/or reproductive harm.

Why has MSR placed a Proposition 65 label on some of its products?

By placing the Prop 65 warning on a product, MSR acknowledges that it contains one or more of the chemicals on the Prop 65 list, however the listed chemical may be well within the “no significant risk” range. MSR has not evaluated every product but out of caution, we include the warning.

Are consumers who use an MSR product with a Proposition 65 label at risk?

The label simply indicates that the product contains the chemical and because of that, there is a potential for exposure to it.

The California government states: “The fact that a product bears a Proposition 65 warning does not mean by itself that the product is unsafe.” The government explains, “You could think of Proposition 65 more as a ‘right to know’ law than a pure product safety law.”

For example, some MSR stoves contain brass. Exposure to brass is not itself harmful. However lead is a component of brass and should the brass be disrupted, a user could potentially come in contact with the lead. While the lead levels fall below the “no significant risk” range, MSR is still required to acknowledge its presence.

To learn more about California’s Prop 65, please visit: https://oehha.ca.gov/proposition-65/general-info/proposition-65-plain-language

What types of chemicals are on the Proposition 65 list?

The Prop 65 list contains a wide range of naturally occurring and synthetic chemicals that are known to California to cause cancer or birth defects or other reproductive harm. They may be additives or ingredients in pesticides, common household products, food, drugs, dyes or solvents. They may be used in manufacturing and construction, or be the byproducts of chemical processes. Proposition 65 requires that the Governor of California maintain and publish a list of these harmful chemicals, and update it annually.

According to the state of California:

A chemical is listed if it has been classified as a reproductive toxicant or carcinogen by an "authoritative" organization on the subject. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, the National Toxicology Program, and the International Agency for Research on Cancer are considered authoritative for carcinogens. For reproductive toxicants, appropriate authorities include the U.S. Environmental Protection Agency, U.S. Food and Drug Administration, National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health, and International Agency for Research on Cancer. Chemicals will also be listed if they are required to be labeled or identified as a carcinogen or as a reproductive toxicant by an agency of the state or federal government.

What do the letters D and T after the fabrics mean?

"D" stands for Denier. It's a numbering system for fibers, filaments and yarns, in which the lower numbers are lighter/finer and the higher numbers heavier/coarser. "T" stands for Thread Count – specifically the number of warp and fill threads in a square inch. The lower numbers represent a loosely woven fabric and the higher number a tightly woven fabric. These two numbers together help indicate the strength and feel of a piece of fabric.

What are some different configuration of the tarps and wings?

The 7-point design has a "flat" and a "pointed" end. For all configurations, the "pointed end" should always be used as the highest supported point. The opposite "flat edge," which consists of three points, can be stretched tightly and attached to a shelter, car rack, or even the pole-supported vestibule of a tent to form a protected area. Try placing the poles at different points, using no poles at all or adding more poles to create new living spaces. (Paddles and sticks work well in the cord storage pockets, too.) Experiment and be creative!

How should I store my tent?

Never pack or store your tent if it is wet, damp or dirty. Although we use the best polyurethane waterproofing available, prolonged exposure to moisture causes hydrolysis which, in turn, causes the waterproof layer to break down, becoming soft, sticky and no longer waterproof. Storing a wet tent for as little as 24 hours in warm weather is also likely to start the process of mildew forming on the fabric. Mildew will cause your tent to stain, smell and will also lead to the premature breakdown of the waterproof coating. Mildew and moisture damage are not covered under the Limited Warranty.

For long-term storage, keep your tent in a dry and cool area, out of direct sunlight. Store it outside of its stuff sack, as you would a sleeping bag, in a breathable, over-sized cotton or mesh duffel for protection. On the cheap, an old pillowcase is ideal.

How do I guy out my tent with the included tensioners?

Guying out your tent will provide more stability in windy or extreme conditions while also maximizing ventilation. To guy out your tent, run cord from the tent's guy point through the tensioner. Pass the cord around the stake and back through the tensioner, keeping the curved side of the tensioner toward the stake. Tie a knot at the end of the cord. To tighten cord, pull the tensioner up along the cord and release.

What causes condensation and how do I reduce it in my tent?

Condensation is the build-up of moisture inside your tent due to differences between the inside and outside temperatures. There are three main sources:
  • Weather Conditions: High humidity, low temperatures, and rainy conditions create the most condensation.
  • People: We produce about 1 - 2 pints of moisture per night through breathing and skin evaporation.
  • Wet Environment: Wet ground or wet gear stored inside the tent.
While no tent design can eliminate condensation, the key to reducing it is ventilation. Cooler, drier air has to flow into your tent and warm, moist air must escape. We have designed a variety of ways to do this.

To start, the tent body and ceiling are made of breathable and mesh fabrics. This allows moisture to escape the interior of your tent. However, it must also be able to escape the waterproof fly, and every MSR rainfly has a peak vent that provides protection from the outside, while still allowing essential, free-flowing fresh air to move through your tent. You can also leave a door open in good weather, or take advantage of the double sliders on the doors to vent from the top where warm and moist air tends to accumulate. Make sure to leave at least two vents open if possible, allowing any breeze to provide cross-flow ventilation for maximum circulation. Guying out your rainfly will also increase ventilation in hot or humid conditions.

Video: What causes condensation in a tent

How long will a tent last?

A tent's lifespan is directly connected to the amount you use it. A tent's biggest enemy is UV radiation (just like your skin). A tent that lives in extreme conditions at high altitude, such as Everest Base Camp, may only last a few months, while a well taken care of tent, used occasionally under normal conditions, can last for many years.

Does MSR sell tent pole sets by themselves?

Yes, we do sell tent pole sets by themselves – just contact us here if you need a replacement. Please note, our pole sets are only compatible with the specific tent model they are designed to fit.
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We Believe in What We Build

At MSR, we take pride in engineering the highest-quality outdoor gear available, and we stand behind everything we make. MSR gear is built to be exceptionally durable and easily repaired. And we back it up with the best service in the industry, all to keep your gear performing for you—and out of landfills. Visit our MSR warranty page for more info.

Portrait of our repair shop crew

Overall rating: 4.5 / 5 from 96 reviews.

AI Generated Review Summary

The Hubba™ NX Solo Backpacking Tent is highly praised for its spaciousness, perfect size for solo backpackers, lightweight design, ease of setup, and excellent value. It also features a large vestibule, handy side pockets, and performs well in extreme conditions. Customers recommend it highly for hiking.

Summary topics

  • Spaciousness and Storage: 8%
  • Perfect Size for Solo Backpackers: 6%
  • Lightweight Design: 16%
  • Ease of Setup and Value: 7%
  • Performance in Extreme Conditions: 6%

Review topics: ["fit","size","model","problem","straps","weight","weather","pockets","bag","performance","quality","packs","fabric","material","looks","price","color","design","conditions","works","customer service","rain","setup","service","body","protection","moisture","features","tent","fly"].

Review highlights

  • "The Hubba is easy to set up, has great ventilation, is of reasonable weight and great value for your money."Cwras
  • "The Hubba NX Solo is light weight and fantastic for hiking."Theoz
  • "You can certainly stake the fly out tightly when it's windy, but no need to pressure things if it is calm."Peter S.

Reviews

Perfect fair weather tent. A liability in the wet.

"I've had this tent 14 years now. It's amazing in nice weather, but it has two big problems in wet weather: 1. The fly doesn't go low enough. As soon as it rains with the slightest wind, your inner gets wet. Both from direct rain and from splashing droplets. And because the tent is small, your sleep system is touching the inner, so your sleep system gets wet. I'm 1. 90m so both my head and feet get wet. Additionally, because the fly is too far above the ground, less vestibule area stays dry, meaning less usable gear space. 2. The fly is too close to the inner, it touches the inner when it's heavy with moisture, so moisture transfers to the inner. Especially on the opposite side to the vestibule. No, this is not a problem with my pitching. I just don't understand why you wouldn't redesign this tent to a) have more fly so that it can be closer to the ground (and if you wanted it higher you could stake it further out), and b) have the fly attach slightly further away from the inner so there's zero chance of the two touching. This would make the tent bombproof. A couple of other small things could be better, like the ease of tying back the fly door. Also the fly's seam sealant started peeling off after about 7 years, though I've not found that the loss affects water proofing. The tent pole doesn't exactly pack down well, it is an ungainly mess in your pack and too long for bikepacking - it's great that MSR has come out with the bikepacking version to rectify this. The groundsheet needs to be made bigger to include the vestibule area. The gear shed could use a redesign as well, it's silly that it's so low. One of the best things about the Hubba Hubba is its height, the last thing I want to be doing is adding something to my tent that makes me have to crawl into it. All in all, this will always be the tent I take out in nice weather, but for wet weather I'm looking for a replacement. I'm done with wet gear. My next tent is going to be fly-first pitching, so the inner doesn't get wet when setting up in the rain."

Brendan (3/5)

Awesome backpacking tent. Very strong

"Awesome backpacking tent. Very strong poles, and durable material. My dog and I use it a lot."

Shane T. (5/5)

beautifully light, spacious yet packs small

"I use my tent in the UK hills. It is impressively strong and thanks to the nylon fly sheet quiet in the wind (compared to polyester fly sheet tents)> However it is not the best for the UK as we have a very damp climate. I have found it difficult to avoid getting damp in my MSR. The flysheet is properly waterproof but as it is pitched inner first it is very disappointing how damp the inner gets when pitching in the rain before the fly goes on. Also the inner has a large mesh content so when moisture is moving around under the fly (wind blowing condensation off the fly, or blowing it underneath the fly) the mesh doesn't resist transmission into the inside at all - it would tend to rest on a traditional inner and then get blown off. So, i am happy with my MSR for dry weather but am looking to replace it for use in the UK hills."

David B. (2/5)

Not a tent for rainstorms

"Hiking in the Norwegian mountains I headed out for a thruhike. When you’re by yourself pitching the innertent first during heavy rainfall and often wind, the innertent gets wet. Remember one have to put the pegs in the ground/around rocks so the tent doesn’t fly away in the wind. By the time the tentpoles are up and I’m ready to clip on the innertent, it’s already wet through the mesh. On my last hike it happened several times and I was praising my Sweedish cloth for being able to soak up the ponds of rainwater inside the innertent. Especially in the corners. In rain it’s the same situation setting it up on rock as on soft ground and I use a tyvek ground cloth barrier. I am now desperate, just got out of the mountain and I am seriously looking to replace this tent. I don’t see any youtube videos of anyone pitching the MSR Hubba NX in heavy rain and wind (which is common in Norway and Scandinavia). For my next thruhike I will have to find another solution when it comes to the tent-situation."

@Eventyrjegeren T. (2/5)

Hard to pitch it properly

"Every time I pitch this tent I find that the outer tent (flysheet) always touches the inner on the side opposite the door. I have tried experimenting with the guy rope and staking point on that side of the tent to pull the outer further out, but it doesn't help as it just pulls the fabric on the middle of that side, whereas the outer is touching the edges of the inner. I find there it is hard to stake the rear centre because there is a big gap between the bottom of the fly and the ground so you end up with the steak not fully in the ground. The rear of the tent just doesn't look right when pitched and the rear ventilation point ends up all distorted because. I have seen someone on YouTube added a guy rope to the rear staking point so will try that. There is a loop attached to the ventilation point to presumably add another guy rope so I will try that. However, for what is a premium product, I wouldn't expect users to have to make their own modifications in order to get a perfect pitch. I have two other tents from TerraNova and am able to get a nice taut pitch with lots of clearance between inner and outer with no modifications. Disappointing poorly designed product from MSR. I see someone else has complained about this issue in these reviews which suggests it's a design issue, not a manufacturing error."

Ed (3/5)

Rapid degradation

"The flysheet and the floor covering of the tent disintegrated and fell into small pieces! However, on the frequently asked questions and documentation page, regarding the lifespan of the tent, it says that "a well-maintained tent, used occasionally under normal conditions, can last for many years" (https: //www.msrgear.com/fr/tentes/tentes-de-hikonn%C3%A9e/tente-de-hikonn%C3%A9e-elixir-2/10331.html). In correspondence with customer service, they tell me: "There is no maximum lifespan... Longevity on current tent models can generally vary from 10 to 15 years, but initial degradation may occur as quickly as 5 years, from the time of manufacture...". When purchasing, I would have appreciated such informed information, concerning the possibility of the tent deteriorating so quickly (less than five years in the case of mine - although it was carefully stored and aired regularly). This would probably have influenced my choice in relation to budget/sustainability... Surprisingly, I have another MSR tent, the Elixir 2 model, purchased a few years ago as well, which shows no degradation (same use, same quality of storage). How to explain this??? Many people on online forums testify to anticipated degradation of MSR tents. I think that some models of the brand have had quality problems in manufacturing. Too bad this was not communicated, leaving people to try to renovate their tent themselves, after the warranty period and without any commercial gesture (compensation/replacement/renovation products offered). Customer service did not answer my questions... It's detrimental for the MSR Brand... Personally, I don't think I'll make another purchase for an MSR tent, because there are too many uncertainties..."

Manu (1/5)

NX1 issues

"No matter how many times I’ve put up the Hubba NX 1 the long side opposite the doorway is always too close to the fly. It seems like a design flaw as others have had this issue."

Jan (3/5)

Embrace the imperfection

"Not a perfect tent. It screams out for the reassuringly expensive footprint that arrives without grommets. Of course, you can tie knots in the corner ties but then the footprint becomes discouragingly expensive and a little unimpressive. First pitch, I was scrabbling about in the peg bag for the other 3 pegs, which don't exist! And then there's that flappy back section that doesn't have a guy line/bungee at the bottom seam so that the fly touches the inner when it's slightly windy. Strange then that I still love this tent and would wholly recommend it as a premier league, 3 season backpacking tent. It looks great, it's built well and the cons are overwhelmed by the glorious pros. So I tied knots in my footprint corner ties, bought some extra pegs (MSR of course) and attached a little bungee loop to the back rim of the fly. And then I got over myself."

Lenny63 (5/5)

tiny house

"i lived for 2 months in what i started calling my tiny house in harsh conditions ( lots of rain , frost , heat) and at times it really felt like home , only at the end of my trip the tent started to let water in , not problematic but i,think it wouldnt last another 2 weeks in these conditions on the other hand it is super easy and fast to put up , very lightweight and easy to pack . is there a way i can make it waterproof again?"

Tom B. (4/5)

Even its a single person tent, I wish it had a door on both sides.

"A bikepacker from Japan. Summer is always muggy and moist here in Japan. Rain flay is always on my tent. it would be helpful to have doors on the both end for ventilation and for additional gear storage even it increase the weight and cost."

Jkozono (5/5)

Q&A